Just in case you're still having issues with your electronics, here's a tip. If you don't have a volt meter, it's a great investment for a salt water boat, and all the connection issues you're gonna have. remove the plate that the switches are mounted to if possible, or gain access to the backs of the switches. Start turning on suspect items. When they turn off suddenly, use the volt meter to test voltage across each connection (red wires) working toward the feed location. Remember you're measuring difference of potential, so if both sides are hot, it will read 0-volts, and if they are both dead it will read 0-volts. If it reads 12-volts DC, then one side is hot, and one side is dead. This is your trouble spot. Even if it reads just a few volts, then it's not a good connection. There should be no voltage drop over any connection or switch. If everything checks out ok, don't forget to check the grounds. You can check the grounds (black wires)by selecting the continuity test, and looking at the resistance to flow. The higher the resistance, the poorer the connection. If it doesn't "ring" or make a noise to tell you it's a complete circuit, then the connection is broke.
I had an issue with my docking lights shutting off after being on just a short time, and found that a connection was fair, but under load was heating up and breaking down. A poor connection will heat up and break down. It's a domino effect. That's why I prefer to check the connections under load. Be carefull, hope this helps someone.
Edited by ripsomelip (05/31/09 12:47 AM)
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